So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

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So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby MKTheVintageBloke » June 15th 2018, 1:20pm

I know, I've mentioned that I've got some good stuff on the way, and with a slight delay, here they are! And, well, so is the write-up you have (or haven't, I can't read everyone's minds) been waiting for!

At first, I wanted to buy a contemporary watch. Well, a reissue, for opinions about which I've asked a few people, including fellow Lords. But, well, in light of the opportunity to have two vintage beauties, I have decided to postpone the contemporary watch purchase. After all, I'm not MKTheReissueBloke or MKTheContemporaryBloke. Mr. Bloke is Mr. Vintage Bloke, and since that's an obligation in itself, I'd well and truly hate to disappoint.

Frankly, I don't know which one to start with... OK, let's stick to alphabetical order.

The first one is a long-defunct brand known to most (or at least so I'd assume) for their work on micro-rotors. This one's an ordinary hand-cranker, but I found it exciting no less. When I got it out of the packaging, the light reflected off of the applied features and the polishing, sending a warm, tingling sensation from the neck down to the plums...OK, I won't get that descriptive.

Aaaaanyway, here it is, in all its steel, 1960s glory.
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Took the pic right after taking it out of the bubble wrap - came without a band, so I've put it on a spare one that I had in the depths of my drawer.

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When I've first seen it in pictures sent to me by my friend (from whom I've bought both watches), the lighting in them made the dial and its applied features appear champagne and gold respectively. However, the dial turned out to be - actually, even for the better - a lovely silver with a hint of patina, with the applied features in polished steel, shining like cojones del perro in the warm rays of afternoon sun.

The 33mm case is all steel, with a screw-in back. Got to love the lugs and the overall profile - it's almost all dial, with hardly any bezel. The lugs don't taper at all, while still looking quite bloody sleek.

Here's the case back, on both sides - sadly, that's where lies the only flaw of this watch. At some point between the watch having rolled out of the factory north of 50 years ago and the moment that I have bought it in A.D. 2018, some fucking baboon just had to wear it on a single-piece, coarse nylon strap for a penny. Needless to say, I'm dreaming of having a DeLorean-based time machine for the sole purpose of going back in time to hang the bastard by the ballsack.

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Now, the movement...
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"But it looks like an ETA", some would say. Ummm... It does, yes. Like a 1080, to be precise. Still, it only takes one good look to notice the differences. Visual similarities aside, it's an in-house Buren 1420. At 10.5''', it's hardly a big movement. Still, good enough to run at 0 to +5 seconds per day, as my watchmaker friend has tuned it to run when he serviced it.

Oh, and lest I forget: the watch still has its original, signed crown.
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OK, on to the second one. So, tell me, has anyone here ever heard of DuBois? No? Neither did I, until not so long ago. I really wanted a 1940s piece, even by an obscure brand, but with a dial to die for. And, well, this one fits the criteria just fine...
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The moment I first saw it, I had an indeed very phallic reaction to the two-tone dial, with the cream-coloured radium lume, and a sharp contrast between the sandy gold background, and the pale silver ring.

I did mention buying the watch when talking to my friend, an avid Zenith (and everything Georges Favre-Jacot) collector from Germany. " 'An obscure brand called DuBois.' Just don't tell that to any Zenith collector", she said. DuBois, while indeed obscure to most, save for making watches has been a big-time Zenith retailer. Big-time enough for Zenith to have provided them with chrono movements - and every now and then, a DuBois chrono with the cal. 146HP or the El Primero shows up somewhere.
The factory itself was indeed founded in 1785, and until the end times of pocket watches has made stuff ranging from "more than decent" to "high-grade" and "extraordinary." At some point it disappeared from the radar, and I've no idea when did it go belly up.
It has been necromanced a few years ago, but looking at their current line-up, I'm wondering how could such a brand start to produce such overpriced shite as they do now.

OK, OK, let's get back to the watch. The 33m case is chrome-plated, but in good shape. Very light brassing just by the edge of the case back, so not in a place where I'd mind it. Besides, with that dial, that's nothing that I'd be unwilling to forgive.
Screw-down back:
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The movement is nicely finished, but nothing particularly special - a FEF 190, 10.5''', with a mediocre power reserve of 38 hours. My friend has equipped it with - IIRC - a new pallet fork, and a new mainspring, since the old one was worn, causing it to run at a low amplitude, causing it to run quite bloody fast. After service, it runs with the same accuracy as the Buren. +5 s/d tops.

One more shot, just because:
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OK, that's it for this write-up - hope you've enjoyed it, lads and lasses.
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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby gerdson » June 15th 2018, 1:41pm

Sehr schön!
I love that Buren.
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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby JAS1125 » June 15th 2018, 2:23pm

Both are great
Well done
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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby artman » June 15th 2018, 2:32pm

Nice finds MK. Dig that movement in the grand prix. Love the dial on the Dubois.
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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby Racer-X » June 15th 2018, 3:20pm

Partial to the Buren. Very cool, Congrats.
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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby Thunder1 » June 15th 2018, 4:15pm

gerdson wrote:Sehr schön!
I love that Buren.

Ich mache zwei...
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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby smellody » June 15th 2018, 5:34pm

Both are very cool!
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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby biglove » June 15th 2018, 5:46pm

Good gravy, Bloke! Both look absolutely mint.

The Buren just oozes class and in the best way. Fuck reissues when this is what you can purchase.
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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby TemerityB » June 15th 2018, 5:59pm

Both nice, both with great back stories: But that Buren. That's in such amazing shape. Wow.

Another stellar post, MK. Congrats on the pickups.
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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby Mark1 » June 15th 2018, 8:28pm

Two nice additions. I particularly like the Buren dial, classy. Congratulations.
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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby bobbee » June 16th 2018, 12:48am

You know I'm a vintage lover too Mike, and these two are stunners.
The DuBois dial is one of the best-if not the best-of its kind I have ever seen, condition is up there. The Buren is something any collector whether vintage or modern can appreciate, simple yet classical.

Jammy fucker.

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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby conjurer » June 16th 2018, 7:57am

Both of those watches are the fucking tits!
I checked you out, and I now want you to take the journey to lick my taint. It's small, but vast.


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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby MKTheVintageBloke » June 16th 2018, 10:27am

Thanks, chaps! The Buren is a looker indeed. So is the DuBois. And it's going to be even better, when in two-three weeks I'll have new straps for them. The DuBois will receive a tan pigskin one, which is what it was most likely equipped with when new. Dunno about the Buren, maybe pigskin as well, although I think that black ox leather would serve it well all the same.
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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby nimbleboy » June 16th 2018, 11:54am

So cool! Damn.
Is it safe?
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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby majt » June 16th 2018, 11:59am

nice very nice.
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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby 3Flushes » June 16th 2018, 1:00pm

Fun read- that Du Bois is a hell of a catch in that shape.
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Re: So, these 2 beauties just arrived...

Postby MKTheVintageBloke » June 17th 2018, 9:29am

3Flushes wrote:Fun read- that Du Bois is a hell of a catch in that shape.

Thanks, 3F. Indeed, chrome plating preserved largely intact isn't all that common, and combined with a dial without any noticeable flaws, it's quite a find.
An appeaser is one who feeds a crocodile - hoping it will eat him last.
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